Button-Down Shirt Story 4: The Classic B.D.

When we first opened our store in New York in 2012, the so called original button-down shirts there were all wrinkle-resistant and fusible interlining was used for the collars. The collar was hard and roll lost its beautiful curve. It seemed like the New Yorkers were extremely unsatisfied and disappointed with these shirts available in the market.That is why our shirts received high praise for the roll and the soft touch of the collar. It was around this time that the dispute over “how the ideal B.D. shirt should be” began.

One day, we found a comment online.

“Mercer & Sons have stuck to their original ways and make button-down shirts without interlining. The price is high but worth it. Kamakura Shirts must have skilled workers and they should be able to produce even better quality shirts if they learn from Mercer & Sons and develop their B.D. shirts without collar interlining. Kamakura Shirts are always priced in favor of customers so if they can do what Mercer & Sons are doing at their price, their shirts would simply be the best.”

A long-established American brand invented the B.D. shirt and it has been an “American Classic” ever since. Much like classical music, even though the score stays the same the manner in which the music is adapted and played reflects the times.

That is why it made sense to reproduce B.D. shirts in the traditional American box silhouette (we made similar straight cut jackets at VAN) while keeping the beautiful roll of the collar with the vertical line in mind. Having said that, the first B.D.s were too broad and didn’t complement the silhouette at all. This was something that ought to be improved by modern technology, which is exactly why we used our newest shirt pattern (the “Manhattan Model”).  

The new collection of revived classic B.D. shirts without collar interlining is called “SPORT”, and is a masterpiece that lives up to the expectation of New Yorkers. It is our “Old Yet New” shirt.