Button-Down Shirt Story 5: Revival of the Original B.D.
Recreating a button-down shirt without interlining. That was in fact how the original B.D. shirts were.
One of the difficulties was that most of the staff at Kamakura Shirts did not know how the original B.D. ought to feel. Many only knew Italian shirts that were stocked in “select shops” (multi-brand stores) during the post-Ivy trend in Japan.
Unintentionally perhaps, the B.D. collars from around the world have slightly shifted from how they were originally made. In the midst of all this, discussions progressed within our company and we began testing several archived patterns.
Of course, we imagined how difficult it would be to create a distinctive collar roll that was beautiful without any interlining. The even more pressing question was whether there actually was a factory that could sew such a shirt. Did the factory that once sewed former VAN shirts still have those skills? Luck was on our side, as several skilled seamsters still remained at the factory and they hadn’t forgotten their craft.
The next question was what to do with the pattern? That was when the dialogue began between our technical team and genius pattern-maker, Mr. Shibayama. Mr. Shibayama was a true master of British and Italian clothing, but “Traditional American style” was out of his area of expertise.
Then something truly amazing happened. Mr. Shibayama decided to put aside all his experience and knowledge and began constructing an “American-style” pattern from scratch. As a result, he came up with a B.D. collar design that would sit comfortably with an American-style jacket. He said that the theory behind the construction and design was completely different for American and European designs. And that was how the perfect “Old Yet New” SPORT B.D. shirt was born.
I know that our employee’s had high expectations for this SPORT shirt too.